Boat trips on the Ganges
One of the most popular activites in Varanasi is to hire a small boat, amybe with a couple of other people and explore the various ghats on the riverside. You will have to work out for yourself about how comfortable you feel getting near to those who are being cremated at the waters edge. Most boatmen will be aware enough to be sensible about it.
Rather like gondaliers in Venice the price is absolutely negotiable. The one thing you don't do is negotiate with middle men who hang around the hotels and cafes. They are just chancers looking for a unhealthy cut. Just head down to the waters edge - they will come to you. Most seem to be able to negotaiate a small rowing boat for between 35-50 rupees and hour. Some get fleeced and pay much more, others negotiate hard and get to the 'Indian' price of about 20 rupees an hour.
Sourbugger (of course) came up with a great deal of 4 rupees for the entire day. (to be fair that was now 20 years ago so don't trust my prices). On the downside the boat was spending it's day crossing back and forth across the Ganges delivering dried cow turds. They didn't smell (well just a little bit.
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